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I think trying to cram in any more hangboarding than this would either cut into recovery too much, risking overuse injury over time, or it would start to take away from quality bouldering time.However for the second workout, where I hangboard first, I feel that hangboarding really teaches you good motor recruitment and isn all that fatiguing, and usually my fingers feel extra strong during that shorter bouldering session after.I think it a great tool, but its purpose is to just “use up” any extra recovery capacity you might have actually climbing hard is the better training and your aim should be to do as much of that as possible per week. If you start overusing the HB and over reaching your recovery limits too much, it will be detrimental to your climbing and/or injurious.repeater workouts just offer more overall volume and training stress compared to a max hangs workout, for those days when I am not able to climb or go to the gym. It has definitely helped my climbing and I improved drastically from it.That being said, I don think either of your buddies need to start hangboarding anytime soon.
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